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Thursday, April 30, 2009

Motorcycle Types


1. Standard Motorcycle Type
This type of motorcycle is typically a street bike that will be able to perform most functions fairly well but not be great at one. Like the saying, jack of all trades but master of none. A standard motorcycle type will have a simple engine with very little body style, simplistic. Standard motorcycle types are typically very reliable and versatile. Typically they are not very expensive or reasonable in cost. In addition standard motorcycle types are easy to maintain where manufacturers don't spend a ton of time and money on looks or high performance. One thing to remember is that that a typical standard motorcycle can be easily converted to another type by accessorising it.


2. Cruiser Motorcycle Type A cruiser has typically a chassis that is very low and longer than all other motorcycle types out there. They are usually easier to handle and are great for beginner riders. A cruiser will in most cases, but not a requirement, have a V-Twin engine but can have an inline or a V-four sitting in them. Most manufactuers make some kind of a cruiser. Check out individual manufacturers to see what you like, they do have their own touches. Cruisers are very custimizable and you can accessorize your cruiser in many different ways.

3. Dirt Motorcycle Type: Dirt bikes are small, tough, and light. The reason they are built this way is for the following reasons: ease of handling (most important), small displacement engines, take a beating, and withstand being dropped over and over. Dirt bikes have great suspensions and tires that dig into dirt like no other. A dirt bike does not have turn signals, tail rights or any other devices required to be street legal. These accessories are also ommited from the dirt bike to avoid breakage. This basic fact diffirenciates between a dirt and dual sport motorcycles. Most dirt bikes are built by Japanese and European manufacturers such as Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha, KTM and Husqvarna.

4. Sport Motorcycle Type: Sport motorcycles are typically designed for speed, look and to be bigger and faster. Most manufactureres make sport bikes but the Japanese and Italian manufactureres stand out of the crowd. Manufactures like Susuki, Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Ducati, and Moto Guzzi to name a few of the leaders. Some of the more popular models are Honda CBR, Yamaha YZF, Kawasaki Ninja, Suzuki GSX-R, Triumph T595, and Ducati 900SS and 916 series. Sport motorcycles in general will have high performance engines such as an inline four or a V-twin along with light alloy frames. These features makes these types of motorcycles fast and performance is at the top of the list of requirements by riders of sport bikes. A few other items that make a sport bike a sport bike are: lightweight chassis, specialty stiky tires , aerodynamic and colorful body. One thing sport motorcycles do not have is comfort.

5. Sport Tourer Motorcycle Type: A sport tourer motorcycle is a mix of sport and touring type of motorcycle. This type of motorcycle is typically best for aggresive riding which requires performance as well as comfort. A sport tourer motorcycle is much like a sport bike in terms of looks but with easier ways for accessory attachments, such as luggage systems (standard on many models). These bikes will probably be equiped with fuel injection as well as anti-lock brakes. Several manufactures make a sport touring bike such as Honda ST1100 model, or BMW R1100 RS model.
6. Touring Motorcycle Type: Harley Road King, BDW R1100 RT, Honda Goldwing are types of models that fall into the touring motorcycle type group. Great bikes! If you're looking to do long distance riding requiring comfort this type of motorcycle is for you. In order for a motorcycle model to fit into this category it MUST have hard luggage racks. These motorcycle types are almost always equipped with luggage racks with plenty of storage, golve box, fairings, armchair type backseat and windshield and almost always a rubber mounted high performance engine. Touring bikes sometimes come with cruise control as well as heat and air conditioning.

7. Dual Sport Motorcycle Type A dual sport motorcycle type is a happy medium between a dirt bike and a standard motorcycle. They are street legal and you have the option to take this motorcycle offroad. Dual sport motorcycle have special suspension (more travel) to be able to take it offroad. Hand guards as well as skid plates are usually standard on a dual sport. They are a bit heavier than a dirt bike so handling offroad will not be as good and if you get stuck you might have a harder time to get out compared to a dirt bike. This is a very durable motorcycle for both road as well as offroad type riding. Almost all manufacturers make a dual sport. Some examples models are Kawasaki KX, Honda XR, and Suzuki DS models. BMW makes a GS model. Source : all-motorcycle-accessories.com

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How To Setting Up Your Carburetor


1. High RPM
For high RPM, Main Jet is the most important part which working for it.
First we will select Best Main Jet for our engine. to select which Main Jet we should use, we can do trial and error. To get the best, most even top end power (full throttle/after 7500 rpm), select the main jet that produces the highest top speed / pulls hardest at high rpm. If the bike pulls harder at high rpm when cold and less hard when fully warmed up, the main jet is too large. Install a smaller main jet and retest until you find the main jet that pulls the hardest at high rpm when fully warmed up. This must be done first before moving on to the other tuning ranges. If the bike doesn't pull well at high rpm when cold and gets only slightly better whenfully warmed up, the main jet is too small. In order to properly tune the midrange and low rpm carburetion, THE MAIN JET MUST FIRST BE PROPERLY SELECTED after 10 to 15 minutes ofhard use! Do not pay too much attention to the low-end richness when you are changing main jets - you still need to be using the main jets that produce the best power at high rpm. You will deal with the low-end / cruise later - after step 2.

2. Midrange
After the Best Main Jet have been selected we can starting for step 2!
Select best needle clip position
To get the best power at full throttle / 5k-7k rpm, adjust the needle height, after you havealready selected the best main jet.
If the engine pulls better or is smoother at full throttle/5k-7k in a full throttle roll-on starting at 3k.
If the engine pulls better when fully warmed up but still not great between 5k-7k, try raising the needle to richen 5k-7k.
If the engine pulls equally well between 5k-7k when cooler as compared to fully warmed up, the needle height is probably properly set.
Do not pay too much attention to the low-end richness when you are changing needle clip positions - you still need to be using the clip position thatproduces the best full throttle / 5k-7k power inconjunction with the main jets (Step 1) that produce the best power at high rpm. You will deal with the low-end / cruise next.
3. Low end
Step 1 (Best Main Jet) and Step 2 (needle height) must be selected before starting step 3!
To get best low-end power, set float height (fuel level) so that the engine will accept fullthrottle, without missing or stumbling, in 2nd gear from 2.5k to 3k rpm at minimum.
Float heights, unless otherwise specified in the installation guide, are measured from the "gasket surface" of the carb body to the highest part of the top of the float - with the float tang touching but not compressing the float valve spring.
If the engine has a "wet" rhythmic, soggy area at full throttle / 3k-4k rpm, that gets worse as the engine heats up, lower the fuel level by resetting the float height 1mm greater (if the original was 13mm - go to 14mm). This will lower the fuel level, making full throttle / 2k-3k rpm leaner.
If the engine is "dry" and flat between 2k to 3k rpm, raise the fuel level.
Example: change float height from 15mm to 14mm to richen up that area.
REMEMBER, since the main jet WILL affect low speed operation, the MAIN JET has to be within 1 or 2 sizes of correct before final float setting.
Warning: If the engine is left with the fuel level too high,, the engine may foul plugs on the street and will be "soft" and boggy at part throttle operation.
Adjust Floats to raise/ lower the Fuel Level.
Base settings are usually given if a particular application has a history of fuel level criticalness. The Fuel level height in the float bowl affects full throttle/low rpm and, also, richness or leanness at cruise/low rpm.
Reference: a bike that runs cleanly at small throttle openings when cold, but starts to show signs of richness as it heats up to full operating temperature, will usually be leaned out enough to be correct if the fuel level is LOWERED 1mm. Check out and RESET all: Suzuki (all), Yamaha (all) and Kawasaki (if low speed problems occur). Needless to say, FUEL LEVEL IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!!!
If there are low-end richness problems, even after lowering the fuel level much more than 1.5mm from our initial settings, check for needle wear and needle jet (part of the emulsion tube). See Worn Needle and Worn Needle Jet diagram. It is VERY common for the brass needle jets (in the top of the "emulsion tube") in 36mm, 38mm and 40mm Mikuni CV carbs to wear out in as little as 5,000 miles. Check them for "oblong" wear - the needle jet orifice starts out round! Factory Pro produces stock replacement needle jets / emulsion tubes for 36mm and 38mm Mikuni carbs.
4. Idle and low rpm cruise
Fuel Screw setting
There is usually a machined brass or aluminum cap over the fuel screws on all but newer Honda. It's about the diameter of a pencil. Cap removal details. Newer Honda carbs have no caps, but use a special "D" shaped driver, usually supplied in the carb recal kit. We do have them available separately, too. 800 869-0497 to order
Set for smoothest idle and 2nd gear, 4k rpm, steady state cruise operation. Set mixture screws at recommended settings, as a starting point. For smoothest idle, 2nd gear 4000 rpm steady state cruise , and 1/8 throttle high rpm operation. (pj tuning information)
Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level (but, you've "fixed" the fuel level in Step 3 - which you have already done!) AND pilot jet size are the primary sources of mixture delivery during 4000 rpm steady state cruise operation.
If lean surging is encountered, richen mixture screws (turn out) in 1/2 turn increments. Alternative pilot jets are supplied when normally required.
Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level and pilot jet size also affect highrpm, 0 to 1/8 throttle maneuvers. Too lean, will cause surging problems when the engine is operated at high rpm at small throttle openings! Opening the mixture screws and/or increasing pilot jet size will usually cure the problem.
NOTE: A rich problem gets worse as the engine heats up.
If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm drops below the set idle speed, then rises up to the set idle speed, the low speed mixture screws are probably set too rich: try 1/2 turn in, to lean the idle mixture.
NOTE: A lean problem gets better as the engine heats up.
If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm "hangs up" before dropping to the set idle speed, and there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm, the mixture screws are probably too lean: try 1/2 turn out, to richen mixture. Be sure there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm!
from http://www.sport-touring.net

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How Four Stroke Engine Works?

There are four step to produce power in this kind engine, that’s why it called four stroke engine.

1st stroke (Intake): The piston moves down the cylinder and the pressure will drop (negative pressure). The intake valve is opened. Because of the low pressure the air/fuel mixtures is sucked into the cylinder
2nd stroke (Compression): At Bottom Dead Center (BDC) the cylinder is at its maximum volume and the intake valve is closed. Now the piston moves backward the Top Dead Center (TDC) and compresses the air/fuel mixtures. The pressure is increased and the volume is decreased. The necessary work for the compression increases the internal energy of the mixtures - the temperature is increased. Because of the fast compression only a small part of the energy is transfered to the environment.
3rd stroke (Combustion): The spark from the spark plug inflames the mixture. The following explosion presses the piston to the bottom, the gas is operating on the piston. The force drives the piston downward to crank shaft (the valves are closed). The volume is increased and the preasure is decreased. No more energy is added and because of this the internal energy of the gas is decreased as so as the temperature.
4th stroke (Exhaust): at BDC the exhaust valve is opend and the piston moves up the cylinder. The pressure drops near the preasure outside the cylinder because of the opened exhaust valve. Exhaust gas leaves the cylinder. The volume is decreased.

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The Two Stroke Engine

In the two stroke engine, the engine steps are integrated into one simple downward stroke, and one upward stroke. Two strokes. Intake and exhaust are both integrated into the compression and combustion movement of the piston, eliminating the need for valves. This is accomplished by an inlet and exhaust port in the wall of the combustion chamber itself. As the piston travels downward from combustion, the exhaust port is exposed allowing the spent gasses to rush out of the chamber. The downward stroke also creates suction that draws in new air/fuel through an inlet located lower in the chamber. As the piston rises again, it blocks off the inlet and port, compressing the gasses at the top of the chamber. The spark plug fires and the process starts over. Significantly, the engine fires on every revolution, giving the two stroke its power advantage.

However, at the lowest point of travel of the piston when the chamber is filling with fuel/air, the exhaust port exposed above allows some fuel/gasses to escape the chamber. This is easily seen with an outboard motorboat, evident by the multicolored oil slick surrounding the engine, but it happens with all two stroke engines. This — along with burning oil -- creates pollution and fuel-efficiency issues. For these reasons, two stroke engines are reserved for intermittent use, where weight-to-power ratio or orientation issues are important and where mileage isn't primary. Meanwhile manufacturers are looking for ways to add advantages to four stroke motors, making them smaller, lighter and more robust. To further understand the difference between a two stroke and a four stroke engine let us consider the advantages and disadvantages.
Advantages of the two stroke:
  1. Has more get-up-and-go because it fires once every revolution, giving it twice the power of a four stroke, which only fires once every other revolution.
  2. Packs a higher weight-to-power ratio because it is much lighter.
  3. Is less expensive because of its simpler design.
  4. Can be operated in any orientation because it lacks the oil sump of a four stroke engine, which has limited orientation if oil is to be retained in the sump. These attributes make two stroke engines very popular for a variety of uses from dirt bikes, mopeds, jet skis, and small outboard motors, to lawn and garden equipment such as mowers, edgers, leaf blowers, chain saws and hedge trimmers. But there are other differences between the two stroke and four stroke engines that aren't so favorable, which is why you won't see two stroke engines in cars.
Disadvantages of the two stroke:
  1. Faster wear and shorter engine life than a four stroke due to the lack of a dedicated lubricating system.
  2. Requires special two stroke oil ("premix") with every tank of gas, adding expense and at least a minimal amount of hassle.
  3. Heavily pollutes because of the simpler design and the gas/oil mixture that is released prior to, and in the exhaust (also creates an unpleasant smell).
  4. Is fuel-inefficient because of the simpler design, resulting in poorer mileage than a four stroke engine.
  5. Has a high-decibel whine that may exceed legal noise limits in some areas, depending on the product and local applicable laws.

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Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Suzuki DRZ 400E Specification



Dimension :
Length : 2,235mm (88.0 inches)
Width : 825mm (32.5 inches)
Height : 1,245mm (49.0 inches)
Wheel base : 1,475mm (58.1 inches)
Ground Clearence : 325mm (12.8 inches)
Seat Height : 945mm (37.2 inches)
Dry Weight : 119kg (262.3 lbs)

Fuel Capacity : 10 litre(2.6 gal.)

Suspension :

Swing Arm : Progresivve linkage, 21 srep rebound/ 26 step compression damping
adjustable spring preload
Front : 49mm telescopic fork(cartridge type), 18 step rebound/14 step compression damping

Rear Wheel : 18 x 2.15
Rear Tyre : 110/100-18
Rear brake : 1 piston calliper, 220mm disc

Front Wheel : 21 x 1.6
Front Tyre : 80/10-21

Frame : Double-cradle (steel), rake/trail 27.6 degress/114mm(C.W)


Engine
Cylinder : Single cylinder, 4 stroke, DOHC liquid cooled
Displacement : 398cc
Bore x stroke : 90.0 x 62.6mm
Compretion Ratio : 12.2 : 1
Carburetor : Keihin FCR39
Oil Capacity : 1.7 l
Ignition : DC-CDI (digital electronic) starter system
Transmission : 5 speed, constant mess
Primary drive ratio : 74/25 (2.96)
Final drive ratio : 47/14 (3.357)
Lubrication : Electric Lubrication system Dry Sump

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KTM 450EXC specification




Dimension :
Wheelbase : 1,475mm (58.1 inches)
Ground Clearance : 380mm (14.96 inches)
Seat Height : 925mm (36.42 inches)
Dry Weight : 113.5kg (250.3lbs)

Fuel Capacity : 8 Litre

Frame : Double Cradle 25 CrMo4

Front Suspension : WP-USD 48mm
Front Wheel : 21 x 1.6
Front tyre : 90/90-21
Front Brake : 260 mm disc

Rear suspension : WP-PDS shok absorber
Rear Wheel : 18 x 2.15
Rear Tyre : 140/80-18
Rear Brake : 220mm Disc

Engine:
Type : 1 cylinder 4 stroke liquid cooled
Displacement : 448 cc/ 525EXc-510cc
Bore x Stroke 89 x 72mm / 525 EXC - 95 x 72mm
Compretion Ratio : 11 : 1
Carburetor : Keihin MX FCR39
Engine Starter : Kick & Electric
Lubrication :Presssure lubrication with 2 Eaton Pumps
Clutch : Wet, multiclutch, hydrolic
Trasmission : 6 Speed
Primary drive Ratio : 76 : 33
Finqal Drive RAtio : 15 : 45 / 14: 50

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Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Supermoto, combining two different world

as we know, the standard factory motor is designed for the every day use, it means taking from the middle and all types of motor function.
for example, the resilience of Enduro motor, motor Turing comfort, ease of maintenance and so forth. with such a consolidation, of course, found many obstacles, especially if users are in the creative biker. there is some which feel enough with the standard look, but want more power, some other want to have a powerful engine but just a normal look bike.




for attention, this article is for the small engine owner, with the hope to give an idea to change the motor in accordance with his dream motorbike, and of course not for big motorbike owner, that's do have the view and more power than enough for the adrenalin pump on the road.
one type of reference that are now in is SuperMoto, a dirtbike motor with a view to completeness, but with the road and the tires are also used for road asphalt.

to change into a SuperMoto bike look really quite simple, especially if the base motor is not very far from the dirtbike look. so you should select a base motor sport.
just make standard frame more higher, Suspension system in a more powerful, and do not forget to attach a motor sport accessories, such as the handguard, and high sparkboard. the point is to make bike look like a dirt bike, essentially in a higher, and of course do not forget to give an addition on engine power

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